We have just returned from a short break with our campervan and mountain bikes to Opotiki on the edge of the East Cape. Here we discovered the “Motu cycle trails,” journeying on our bikes along the sand dunes and beaches where wild surf has thrown bleached and smoothed logs. Behind the beaches we followed remote river valleys into the bush covered mountain slopes from where storms have washed trees and mountainsides down to the beaches below. Precarious tracks in particular the Pakihi track which clings high above the river like a narrow ribbon drawing the cyclist into mesmerising bush past waterfalls and across streams which feed deep blue pools seen in the river below. Be warned the Pakihi is not for the faint hearted. The track for the majority is only a metre or less wide and is rarely less than 10 to 20 metres above the river. One side cut into the rockface the other drops near vertical to the river below. Falling off is not an option, we covered the first 9 of 20 spectacular kilometers before we tired of concentrating very carefuly on our personal safety.
La Manche
Like the weather the pictures are a real mix. Brittany can have 4 seasons in one day. It is sweaters on, sweaters off, raincoats on, raincoats off. We have had lots of rain at night and the tent seems to be permanently wet. Perhaps the Brettons know more than we think? Our campsite tonight, right on the Bay of Mont Michael closes tomorrow. We are the last guests of the season; tomorrow we are out on our ear. We wonder how many other campsites have closed ahead of us.Still seem to be plenty of “Grockles” in the tourist hot spots. We have cycled over 600k’s with huge winds at times. One one occassion we were unable to push our bikes on the flat against the strength of the wind. However, with good planning we have kept the wind mainly on our tail, sailing along sometimes breaking the village speed limits. All in all a very enjoyable journey with a few days left to go before we cross La Manche. Still roughing it in a tent in wind and rain whilst our daughter and son in law enjoy a luxury cruise in the Greek Islands. Where did we go wrong?
Bretagne
Picture if you will, a dark night, wind and rain lashing a tiny tent with two old folks huddled inside. Between them a can of peas with mayonnisse, a bottle of cider and an almond tarte. The old woman is reading aloud “Mozart’s women” and the old man is nodding off. It is about 7pm and they are about the only ones in a big deserted campsite…….Well, that was last night after a huge day of 71 k’s up and down hill. Brittany is not flat. We followed the Tour de France route and had to push up the hills. The bikes are just too heavy. Today the wind has died down a bit, the sun is out and we have moved further round the coast to Cape Frehel on the Brittany coast. Again camping in the middle of nowhere but remarkably wifi at the groovey little cafe (shades of Bali) across the road from the site. Again, we are the only ones here. Food tonight, for starter tomato soup, followed by bread and more tomato soup, followed by a mars bar. Oh, this French fine food!
Back on the bikes. Lunch on the Loire.
Today we are following the Loire and our last night here is just 15 kms east of Nantes at Oudon. Camping is not easy in France as the campgrounds are generally basic with very simple toilet and shower facilities. Last night was a delight, hand soap, tepid showers and toilets with paper. BUT NO SEATS. Cold porcelain! A huge bonus being a table and chairs plus a portable shelter left over from the summer season. For people on bikes with minimum equipment cooking can be a challenge. Lunch today made up for the canned Nasti Goreng which we were unable to consume last night. A full 2 hours to consume the menu of the day at 10.50 Euros. For me it was the Escargot challenge, 24 to consume as an entree. Clare made a special request unable to face any of the 3 choices of entree being the Escargots, Gizards or Mussels.The main course was sufficient on its own, but the task was not complete without the desert coffee and wine.This was followed by a cycling challenge. Only 50 Kms today. Tonights camp, toilets with seats, but NO PAPER. A bonus being a Pic nic table and Wi Fi.We are unacustomed to such luxuries. A first for us this year. The downfall being we are sleeping beneath the heavily used railway tracks.
Escape to the Jura.
A huge void was left in our lives as numbers reduced to just 2 old sailors. We waved goodbye to family (3) returning to England at Chagny, then Riley departed for Northumberland at Chalon sur Saone. At Louhans Vanessa left us for Chile and Natalie and Danny for Coln in Germany . ALL GONE! Emptyness! As we readjusted to life on our own, the heat turned up and temperatures soared past 35 degrees and on up to 40 degrees from the mid 20′s. We abandoned the boat and took our bikes and tent up into the Jura mountains seeking any fresh water we could find expecting cooler temperatures at around 900 metres altitude. Hard to believe that 10 days earlier the lake De l”Abbaye had been too cold to swim in and they had 5 consecutive days with morning temperatures near zero. Here we slept on top of our sleeping bags and got into any clean water we could find . Crystal clear water cooled us from spring fed sources emerging from limestone cliffs at an icy but refreshing temperature. The days were still very hot making cycling a sweaty but wonderful challenge. Although only little cooler the fresh scent of the shady pine forests and sweet smell hay making in the open alpine meadows was refreshing. A pleasant change from the rather stagnant and polluted waters of the very slow moving river Seille where our boat was moored in the hot stark sun.
